Following the launch of Calvin Klein men’s underwear campaign starring the lead actors of the Academy Award–winning Moonlight, the brand has released its women’s underwear campaign shot by Sofia Coppola. The grainy black-and-white videos celebrate women ages 18 to 73, each handpicked by Coppola for the series. The director’s longtime muse Kirsten Dunst appears, as does Rashida Jones, Nathalie Love, up-and-coming actress Laura Harrier, Maya Thurman-Hawke (the daughter of Ethan Hawke and Uma Thurman), and Chase Sui Wonders (niece of Coppola’s friend, the designer Anna Sui). The true star of the campaign, however, is the inimitable Lauren Hutton, who at 73, makes showing off her skivvies look like a piece of cake. No surprise there—she is a modeling legend after all—but the choice of Calvin Klein to cast women of all ages and ethnicities to model underwear is worthy of reflection.
Think back to other Calvin Klein brand ads created in the ’80s and ’90s, and you’ll remember the teenaged Brooke Shields whispering about nothing coming between her and her Calvins, or the teenaged Kate Moss pressed, topless, against a butch and bulky Marky Mark. The Moss campaign, seen alongside other early-’90s advertising and fashion shows, put an image of youthful sexiness at the fore of American culture. The images were so shocking at the time for their depictions of waifish, adolescent beauty they were accused of promoting “heroin chic” aesthetics and condemned by President Bill Clinton in 1995 and again in 1997.
Today’s campaign marks another shift for the brand since coming under the direction of Raf Simons last year. Yes, the slim, youthful models you’d associate with CK and Simons remain—but mostly in the brand’s ready-to-wear advertising and runway shows. In other arenas, Calvin Klein is taking a more pointed stance to include people of different cultures, age demographics, and ethnicities in its campaigns, providing a more inclusive look at American culture. And with advertising billboards plastered throughout major cities—and ad spots on New York’s Taxi TV and on cable networks—the brand’s outlook on sexiness is being served to a massive audience.
That’s the good news. Oh, and there’s also a new tagline for fans to learn: “Calvin Klein, or nothing at all.”